Transparent Resin Clay

It will be interesting to try this product soon. It's called Sukerukun Transparent Resin Clay. I'm not certain if this is a Polymer Clay, but it is air dry.

Here is Penny Dogs blog about it. She created a gorgeous ring from it. Go have a look!

I haven't tried this air dry clay yet, but suspect it reminds me of thickened Elmers Glue since it always stays flexible. Elmers is white out of the tube, but dries somewhat translucent. I think the term "transparent clay" is a misnomer since no matter how thin a piece is worked it will always have a bit of 'opaqueness' to it, althought the pamphlet says the glaze that comes with it will help to make it 'appear' more transparent. Apparently it can be mixed with oil paint, acrylic paint and watercolour, but too much of any of these as liquids and the clay may have trouble drying or won't be as translucent. Am anxious to try and see if I can come up with something worthwhile. I'll let you know ;). The manufacturer sent these photos of some beautiful flowers that are very artistic examples of what one can accomplish with this clay. Too bad I didn't get who the artist is...

Please send your links or tell about your experience with this clay.

Polymer Clay Fun Pendants - revisited

 This post is already a year old, but shows how time flies. Resin and pendants, lol...Here is one thing I've learned...they are popular, but my newest will be a bit more colorful than these, or at least have more resin :)

May 21, 2009

Been having some fun creating some new Polymer Clay pendants for this Spring and Summer. Been enjoying starfish and sanddollars as usual, but also am having fun creating some flower pendants with resin and foils. I'm feeling very refreshed having been able to play and create something new instead of the constant production work...although, these will become a production also.
Hard to photograph the depth. It feels like I'm looking at them with one eye. If you want a closer look go to my flickr.
The amber golden flower pendant if my favorite as it has varying shades of bronzes and golds. The pendants measure an average of 2x2 inches, but I'm thinking of creating even larger ones. I've already sketched another design....
The orange pendant (on the lower right) I had a bit of difficulty with as I wasn't exactly a fan of orange, but now this pendant is growing on me and am thinking of creating some other bright shades for this season. The flowers were especially creating for a clothing boutique, but will take her the orange pendant to see if she fancies it. The center stone is cats eye, same with one of the blue flower pendants. Now I need some names for the resin flower series, for the starfish squares and the metal starfish and sanddollar blings. I'm terrible with names, all I can think of are 'discs', 'circles' and 'squares'. Names help when being asked "can we have more of the "blah blah blah?" Some people just have a knack for names, not me!
Help!

Tutorial in the works...

More than a few people have asked me to do a tutorial on my Polymer Clay Sea Urchins and other sea life beads. I'm not quite ready to let go of those yet as they are a product line that I sell through various Galleries.
Eventually I will sell tutorials and kits of these when I'm ready to move along in a different direction. For now, I'm thinking of offering up this necklace as a Tutorial with 3 options...

• as a stand-alone ecopy for the pattern
• selling a mold of the cabochon, so that one could create their own sea urchin colour palette.
• and as a complete kit which would include the sea urchin cabochon, beads and pattern, maybe different colours...

Ideas?

Acrylic Painting

Here is my first ever acrylic painting! ...completed that is. I feel I did quite well with this attempt. I might take this photo and turn it into a smaller image and use it in Polymer Clay transfers. What do you think? Maybe on the outside of a vessel...? box?....card?
I attended an acrylic painting workshop this week, also my first. Boy, was that ever fun!!
I've tried watercolors before, but feel I failed miserably with my attempts even though a couple of my watercolours were good enough to be framed.
This workshop was held by renowned wildlife artist Mark Hobson . This year he was bestowed with the honour of attaining Signature Status by the Federation of Canadian Artists which recognizes an artists overall outstanding artistic achievement. Mark has also done 4 coin designs for the Royal Canadian Mint and was awarded the 2006 Artist of the Year award by Ducks Unlimited. Mark has a fabulously interesting workshop coming up in June aboard the Columbia III, a 5 day adventure touring the Broughton Archipelago in Northern Johnston Strait along with learning his many tricks and tips for watercolour.

Steam punk Turtles, Urchins and Flowers

Spent this later part of the week with some Polymer Clay play. Created some Turtle pendants and Flowers. Some of the Turtles are Steam punk....or Borg, whichever term one prefers. Some of the turtles have glass backs. The urchin has a wire wrapped cage.


For the flowers I used Lisa Pavelka's technique, the foil tear away method. One of the pendants has a blue agate, the other dichroic glass. I glued those in and then used Magic Glos. Worked beautifully on a sunny day, but had to do a few coats.

Broken China and Polymer Clay Patchwork

The title says it all, but I didn't fix my China with Polymer Clay. Broke the teapot on the kitchen floor which is Aluminum Laminate. I thought that floor was hardy. Wellllll...it was not! Put a hole in it. The China was pretty thick and heavy. Soooo....I mixed up some polymer clay and hardened it with a heat gun. It's patchwork (in center of photo), but at least one can't see the big white hole!

Inspiring each other with polymer clay

In a strange coincidence, two artist inspired each other with their polymer clay work. One is in France, the other in Canada. I was totally surprised to discover that I was blogged about today. I just left a comment for the person that inspired me when I saw that I too had inspired her. Too funny :), but in a wonderful way.

This is the necklace that was inspired by French polymer clay artist Roudfra of au fil des pates . I was inspired by the shapes of the uneven beads that are more pebble like. She in turn was inspired by my imitative ceramic. haha...this is great!
This one is obvious...I used some photoEz stencil for the swirl earring. I thought a nice little match for the necklace.

I can't remember what I did to these flowers, lol or what I used to get the effect on the leaves of the polymer clay. Should have written it down.

Green, purple and a bit of black

The title sounds like bruises, doesn't it? Well, my arms and fingers feel a bit bruised after wrestling with different gauges of wire. Yep, I've been mixing media again. First I was using bits of wire for my polymer clay flower chain (see below). This involved hammering some jumprings with a ball pein. Then the idea of making some big rings got in the way. Then the green stones led to the creation of a cane for the green bangle (and matching necklace and earrings) and now I'm back to purple pansies. And how was your weekend...? Tomorrow is Monday and I'm back to writing (shhh...another tutorial in the works)

Enter my Giveaway

It is March 29th and since it is so close to the end of the month...the draw will happen May 1st...Please read on

The Survey is now closed...thanks to all who entered!

Polymer Clay Inkjet Transfers that work

In the Fall 2003 issue of PolymerCAFE I demonstrated using Flecto Varathane as a transfer medium for inkjet images on polymer clay. Back then it was said that T-Shirt Transfer paper was the only way of doing transfers from an inkjet. Behind the scenes this wasn't true. Actually it was two of my friends that clued me in to the idea to try something different. During a workshop retreat that Gera Scott Chandler hosted in 2002, she had been using and demonstrating Acrylic Medium with good results and Cheryl Trottier introduced the coated paper method which used no medium, but involved burnishing onto clay and letting the plasticizer of the clay do the work.

T-Shirt Transfer paper is very expensive and I wanted to find a different way. After this, other techniques using TLS, Fimo Gel and Kato Liquid Polyclay became popular choices for inkjet transfers, but also using the same coated paper I had described. I have no idea why Flecto Varathane didn't become just as popular because it actually makes nice 'matte' transfers and has dual purpose in claying as well. I've heard recent rumors that coated paper maybe more difficult to find now, but I just googled "Staples Office Supply" and they still carry it, although it is 'heavyweight' or 45 lb stock rather than 27lb. I'll be purchasing some next week on my trip out of town and report on it.

Materials:

• 1 small block White Premo (Premo seems to work best)

• Tissue blade

• Tile or other suitable worksurface

• cardstock

• Flecto Varathane Diamond Wood Finish - Interior (Waterbased)

• Alcohol (Gin, Vodka, Rubbing alcohol)

• Epson High Quality, Photo quality (matte) for Inkjet printers (look for the word “coated” on the packaging). #384737 approx. $17.96/50 (CDN)
  

• Pasta Roller Machine

• Inkjet images

Step 1: Select images and print onto the Epson paper. I saturate the ink setting to make the colours brighter and bolder as the transfer will look a bit duller. Make sure you print on the smooth coated side, which looks whiter and feels smoother. Cut our your images and don't leave a border.

Step 2: Roll out the white Premo clay to a #3 setting on your pasta machine. Lay the clay sheet onto cardstock paper. Place images face down onto clay and cut around image. Gently remove images from clay.

Step 3: Working on one image at a time, bush Flecto onto the raw clay. Lay image face down onto the clay and burnish lightly. Be careful that paper doesn’t slide around as it sticks right away.

Once it sticks do not lift paper off the clay as colour may transfer at this point. Repeat with all images. (Photo 1)

Step 4: Using a clean brush, dip into alcohol and saturate image by blotting it. Lightly press and burnish with finger, gently wiping, but being careful not to poke hard into the clay with the brush as to dimple the surface or rubbing off the paper. You will see the image appearing through the paper. Any “whitish” spots you see are indications that the image is not quite burnished onto the clay. You may need to re-wet the brush and the image a few times. You will see a complete image through the paper when done. Let dry, this will take approx. 10-15 minutes. At this point you can trim excess clay around image, but be careful not to cut or press into paper. (Photo 2)

Step 5: Bake clay and paper according to clay manufacturers directions. Turn off oven and let cool.

Step 6: Remove image by peeling from a corner. If it sticks too much, try another corner or simply soak in water and lightly rub. Paper will come off with ease. Lay aside to dry.

There is a good write up on Cindy Lietz' site about transfers as well....